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A four day self drive tour of Northern Ireland

The Causeway Coastal
Route offers the kind of jaw-dropping scenery that
fulfils even the fussiest tourist. Apart from the
UNESCO World Heritage site of the Giant's
Causeway, the area boasts nine glens, each
with their own legends, award-winning golf courses,
family parks, castles and the world's first legal
whiskey distillery.
THIS FOUR DAY TRIP CAN BE TAKEN ON ITS OWN OR AS A
PART OF A LARGER TOUR.
IT CAN ALSO BE TAKEN AS A PART OF A SCOTTISH TRIP.

DAY ONE: FROM BELFAST:
The first stop on our tour is Carrickfergus,
a charming town which is home to Northern Ireland's
best-preserved Norman castle, built in the 12th
century to beat off marauders, carry on up the coast
past Larne, the gateway to the Causeway Coast and
Glens, to Glenarm, the seat of the ancient,
feudal landowners, the Earls of Antrim. We follow
the coastal road to Ballycastle for your
overnight stop.
DAY TWO:
- make a dash for the Carrick-A-Rede rope
bridge. The walk down the gravel path is
spectacular. The rope bridge (below left) spans an
80ft chasm linking a tiny island with the mainland.
Surefooted fisherman would traverse it with their
salmon - in those days there was just a single
handrail. The scenery on either side of the bridge
- smugglers' caves are dotted underneath cliffs
sprouting white and purple wild flowers. The land is
bordered by the teal-tinged water that I usually
associate with islands such as Sardinia. Then the
short distance to the Giant's Causeway. The
40,000 mainly hexagonal basalt columns (below right)
poke spookily from the sea, the geometric polygons
too eerily perfect to be moulded by the volcanic
eruption 60 million years ago. Legend has it that
the Fionn mac Cumhail or Finn MacCool (to give him
his Anglicised name) built the causeway to walk to
Scotland to fight his Scottish equivalent
Benandonner.
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All that walking makes you thirsty, so head to
Bushmills, home to the world's oldest licensed
whiskey distillery. Established in 1608. Take the
half-hour tour through the factory and bottling
plant and learn the differences between Irish and
Scotch whisky - the spelling and the fact that the
Irish do not use peat smoke in creating their malt.
Your final destination is the spectacular Downhill
Estate and Mussenden Temple near Castlerock.
The eccentric Frederick Hervey, an Earl and the
Bishop of Derry, built the Roman-style Mussenden
Temple on the edge of a cliff as his library in the
18th century. Scandalously, the married bishop built
it in honour of Frideswide Mussenden, the married
sister of his cousin Hervey Bruce. Beneath the
temple, the bishop built a room for Catholic priests
to say Mass. Overnight in either Coleraine or on
the coast near Portstewart.
DAY THREE:
– driving in Co Londonderry, your first stop is
a beautiful 18th Century folly, originally inspired
by the Tivoli Temple of Vesta. It is a much
photographed landmark built close to the extensive
gardens, grounds and forest of the ruined Downhill
Castle. Superb views along the northern coastline
from here will make your morning! Then follow the
road along the coast of Lough Foyle to
Limavady.
Archaeologists
tell us that the first settlers arrived in Ireland
around 8000 BC. This comparatively late event in
pre-history is probably due to the last Ice Age. The
standing stones and small stone circles that dot the
Limavady area landscape are remnants of the
Neolithic period from about 4000 BC. Limavady town
itself and many of the surrounding villages have
Celtic roots. No one knows for sure just how old the
original settlement of Limavady is. The Celts
arrived in Ireland about 350 BC and settlements in
the Banagher area of the Limavady Borough date from
before the 5th century AD. One of the earliest
records describe how Saint Columbkille presided over
a Convention at Mullagh Hill, just outside the
modern town in 575 AD to determine the future
of the Irish Colony that had settled in the South
West of Scotland.
Just upstream from the castle is where legend tells
us that a faithful hound of one of the O'Cahan
chiefs jumped a gorge on the River Roe to get help
during an unexpected enemy attack. Thus giving rise
to the name "Leim an Mhadaidh" which
means leap of the dog and is today anglicised as
Limavady.
Your tour takes time out at the place of much
controversy – Londonderry Town.
The
story of Derry is a long and tumultuous
one. Set on a hill on the banks of the Foyle
estuary, strategically close to the open sea, it
came under siege and attack for over a thousand
years.
St
Columb came out of Donegal to escape the plague
1,400 years ago and founded his first monastery in
the oak grove (Doire in Gaelic), a gift from his
cousin, Prince of Aileach. It was a holy place. The
saint said that 'the angels of God sang in the
glades of Derry and every leaf held its angel.'
You
can walk along the great 17th-century walls, about a
mile round and 18 feet thick, which withstood
several sieges and even today are unbroken and
complete, with old cannon still pointing their black
noses over the ramparts. The great siege lasted for
105 days.
The
modern city preserves the 17th-century layout of
four main streets radiating from the Diamond to four
gateways - Bishop's Gate, Ferryquay Gate, Shipquay
Gate and Butcher's Gate. Historic buildings within
the walls include the 1633 Gothic cathedral of St
Columb. Overnight here in DERRY
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